We caught up with Expedition Leader, Rayann Elzein, at Swan Hellenic, to talk about polar life, photography, unforgettable expeditions and more…
Hey Rayann, you've got a background in wildlife photography. What drew you to that?
Rayann: I started as a live music photographer, and became interested in wildlife photography on the back of that. Once I moved to Finnish Lapland, I got interested in taking pictures of animals. I live in Ohcejohka, Sápmi, and enjoy connecting with the wildlife there to create beautiful images. As a photographer, I believe showing a level of intimacy with animals can help with conservation.
So what prompted you to take on the role of Expedition Leader for Swan Hellenic?
Rayann: Well, my background isn’t photography or guiding – I’ve been a civil engineer for almost 20 years. So I've had lots of experience solving problems, managing teams, and working in stressful environments. I enjoy sailing and being out in nature, so it felt like a natural progression to become an Expedition Leader. I love being a polar guide, but I still do some consulting for my old company too. It’s the best of both worlds!
How do you manage your work as a photographer and Expedition Leader on Swan Hellenic cruises?
Rayann: Well, you definitely can't do both at the same time! Being Expedition Leader is very busy. There’s day-to-day planning and organization of the expedition, and when I’m not out in the field, I’m up on the bridge talking with the Captain or helping guests or team members. So when I’m Expedition Leader, I don't have time to focus on photography. That said, I never leave the ship without a camera because you never know what you might see! When I'm on board as a photographer, I fully focus on photography. I enjoy doing both, but they’re very separate positions.
What are you looking forward to most about being Expedition Leader again?
Rayann: Is it strange to say I’m looking forward to being in charge?! I think I'm good at it because I really try to understand the wishes of our guests, and I enjoy the discussions I have with different departments.To use a musical analogy, I suppose I like being the conductor of the expedition experience. Actually, guests have noticed I get excited about showing them certain places, and say my enthusiasm is contagious!
Wildlife wonders
What are the biggest challenges you've faced as an Expedition Leader so far?
Rayann: The main challenge is the weather, because it can be unpredictable. Also, regulations tend to change every year – and sometimes during the season – so you need to make sure you’re up to date with them. Polar bears can be challenging too. When you’re ashore, you have to assume there’s a bear behind every boulder. We’re in their territory so we always have to be on guard. We always do very thorough scouting from the Zodiacs before we even think about going on land.
Can you tell us a bit more about your work as Expedition Leader with Swan Hellenic?
Rayann: Sure! I’m up two hours before we start operations to check what’s happening, and understand how the weather will impact the day. Then I’ll be in the field making sure our guests have the best experience. All the while, ensuring wildlife is being respected and nothing is disturbed. It’s full on, but very enjoyable. And I get the reward of seeing the guest’s happy faces!
How does your background in wildlife photography inform your work as an Expedition Leader?
Rayann: Well, I'm not a marine biologist or a scientist, but I have done a lot of research about the wildlife I photograph, which has really helped me as an Expedition Leader. Gathering this knowledge allowed me to start off working as a guide, because I could share what I knew with our guests. And this experience allowed me to grow into the role of Expedition Leader.
What sets Swan Hellenic apart from other cruise lines for you?
Rayann: We offer great comfort and amazing expedition activities. Our ships are very modern and really nice to sail on. We've also been developing great Citizen Science programs. For example, last year in Antarctica we focused on the Happy Whale project. Every tail or fluke of a whale has a unique pattern on the underside, which acts like a fingerprint. Happy Whale gather photos of the flukes and the coordinates of where they’ve been observed to track the whales. Our guests really enjoyed being part of the project!
Polar dreams
What is it about traveling to the polar regions with Swan Hellenic that appeals to you?
Rayann: The wildlife is very diverse, and I like the way everything looks so untouched. Also, my photographer's side enjoys the light. You're so close to the poles, you have unique light, whether it's the middle of summer with the midnight sun, or early or late in the season, when you get amazing golden hours. These moments are the reasons why I really love the polar regions, and enjoy being Expedition Leader for Swan Hellenic there.
What drew you to live in Finnish Lapland?
Rayann: The Northern Lights! Almost every time there’s a clear night, you can find me in my front yard taking photos of the Northern Lights! I also really enjoy the quiet. I've always lived in a city before, and when I got the opportunity to move here in 2020, I knew it's where I wanted to stay. Of course, it comes with some drawbacks. If you need groceries you have to drive two and a half hours to get to the nearest shop. But you learn to live a simpler life, and it's very rewarding and calming as well.
How's living in Finnish Lapland influenced your work with Swan Hellenic?
Rayann: Living in Sápmi, the indigenous name for this northernmost area of Europe, is a whole mindset to me. Using this name is important because it acknowledges the deep cultural roots and history of the Sámi people, who have lived here for centuries. The polar regions are fragile and changing, and you can see that when you talk with people who’ve lived here their whole lives, especially in Finnish Lapland. Someone told me recently that 50 years ago, our main river used to freeze a whole month earlier and thaw a whole month later than now. These kinds of things are a real wake-up call. They also help me in my work as an Expedition Leader because I have real stories to share with guests.
How does Swan Hellenic contribute to conservation and environmental protection?
Rayann: Apart from our Citizen Science programs, our ships are very modern and have the most recent technologies, which helps mitigate some of the impact cruising has. We also try to educate guests on conservation and environmental protection, and raise awareness with our lectures. I recall last year, one of the guides did a lecture on the cycle of plastic in the oceans, and how it gets into different organisms from different animals. It was so interesting!
Once-in-a-life Experiences
What unique experiences have you had with Swan Hellenic?
Rayann: First of all, I got to travel and work in Antarctica for the very first time, which was mind blowing! A unique experience I’ll never forget? I remember one sunny day when I was on a Zodiac cruise. I was the photographer so I had my own Zodiac, and was sailing between the groups and icebergs. Suddenly we saw around 30 humpback whales feeding. There was no wind and very good visibility, so we could see blows of humpback whales everywhere. It was such a spectacular sight!
What would you say are your favorite places to visit in Svalbard?
Rayann: Bråsvellbreen & Austfonna – a 180 km long ice wall, which is the longest glacier front of the northern hemisphere. It’s a truly breathtaking place in all seasons and weather conditions. Also Sjuøyane (the Seven Islands in English). The northernmost islands of the Svalbard archipelago, it truly gives a feeling of being at the "end of the world". And Alkefjellet or "mount guillemot", a steep cliff which is home to about 100,000 breeding guillemots in summer. It’s almost as impressive off season when the birds are gone due to its magnificent geology!
What advice would you give aspiring expedition leaders?
Rayann: First, know your stuff. You need to know as much as you can about as many topics as possible. As I said, I'm not a marine biologist, I'm not an ice expert, but I know a little bit about almost every single topic that we cover, and can talk about those things. Also, show your enthusiasm and be proactive.